Narbonne: On France’s secret riviera

Head for the Med near the city of Narbonne, says Liz Boulter, and you’ll see why artists are drawn by its fishing villages, lagoons and sandy beaches – and why the French have kept it to themselves…
The afternoon was taking on a rosy glow, and not just because of the aperitif of vin citronné (white wine with lemon) or even the crisp rosé that followed. Each time we looked up from our plates, the expanse of salt pans before us had grown pinker. A delicate blush when our starters arrived, it grew more intense with the mains and by the time dessert (salted caramel ice-cream, appropriately) arrived, 350 hectares of sodium chloride were bright salmon.

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